Second Shooter


*Keep in mind that different photographers prefer different settings. Sometimes the "non-traditional" or "breaking the rules" photo is magical, however, these below are my preferences and have been curated based on personal experiences at different shows and selling to clients*

I shoot everything in manual. The only time I will put a setting in AUTO is AUTO White Balance in an indoor area.

If you are not comfortable or used to putting your settings in full manual, please use TV for Canon or S for Nikon. This way you select the shutter and ideally the ISO. Put the white balance on Kelvin (preferred), cloudy, or Auto depending on what looks the most natural and similar to what your eye sees in real time.


Make sure to take pictures of EVERY rider’s show number or I won’t be able to tell who is who (candids don’t need show numbers)

Shutter speed: freeze fast-moving subjects. The faster the shutter, the darker the image

Slower shutter speed=motion blur. The slower the shutter, the brighter the image


Ideally shutter speed for equine sports stays above 2000-2500. In dark arenas or at night, you can go lower (around 1000) for moving horses.

Aperture or f/stop

Depth of field or how in focus your background is.


I personally prefer the background of an image to be blurred. Ideally, keep your f/stop between 3.2 and 4.5. Aperture can be opened for a unique background (a sign, a flag, a group photo, etc)

For really dark indoor arenas or early morning/night I will probably go to 2.8


ISO

The higher the ISO= the more grain

Low iso=darker image

High iso=lighter image


Different camera bodies handle iso very differently. Use your judgement for what your camera's max ISO is.


Ideally, the lower ISO, the better. At a certain point when you can’t compromise a lower shutter and your f/stop is already 2.8, you have to sacrifice some grain.


White Balance

Coloring. Purple/Green and Blue/Orange


Indoor arenas are usually good on AUTO with slight adjustment. Outside, I like my white balance on K to manually choose the color or on cloudy with some adjustment. Remember throughout the day to keep checking on it cause the color temperature outside will likely change. I like warmer images BUT it’s better to shoot slightly cool because I can make the image warmer. It’s hard to make a warm image cooler.

If you aren’t used to manually changing your white balance just keep it on Auto or cloudy depending on how it looks


Focus Types

One shot AF (AF-S on Nikon)- ideal for slow moving subjects

Al Servo (AF-C on Nikon)- highly recommend for sports

Al Focus switches between the two and slows the camera down (not recommended)

Avoid settings where the camera selects the subject. Single point focus is recommended

Jump Timing


Jumping: Square knees after initial takeoff, before descending. This can change depending on height of jump and way they jump. Landing shots are the best when horse is about to touch the ground but hasn't yet.


For private client photography, I shoot in burst on high speed


Trot Timing A


Horse’s leg about to or just beginning to touch the ground (straight front leg with two diagonal hooves almost touching) Ideally, the inside leg is forward so the rider is sitting instead of standing while posting the trot.


I have found the best way for me to know when to time the trot correctly is to stare at just the front inside leg and click the button when the hoof is just about to touch the ground

Trot Timing B


Front leg is bent. Able to see the knee action. Opposite front leg is fully connected to the ground.

Ideally the inside leg is forward so the rider is sitting instead of standing while posting the trot.

Used more in Dressage. Not as ideal in Hunters.

cantering timing


Horse's outside back leg being the only one on the ground or all legs off the ground. You do not want a cantering shot of only the front leg touching.

Take the photo when the horse rocks upwards. When the entire front half of the horses body is launched up, I click the photo.

Walk Timing


Yes, even the walk has a timing!

Front leg almost touching the ground or very very slightly touching. I think it is very ugly when all the horses weight is on its front leg or the front leg is just leaving the ground and its legs look broken

Lighting- Full Sun


I prefer full sun or full backlit. Get the sun directly behind you or directly behind the horse. The less sun and shadow on a horses body at the same time, the better, unless intentional for a reason.

Lighting- Backlit


Horse and jump is completely shaded. Giving them almost a lowly effect from the sun just on the outside of the horse.




Types of jump photos

Full Fence


The whole fence is in the photo with space above rider's head and below the jump. Do NOT cut off standards.

Over the top


Zoomed in to the top rails of the fence. Horizontal. Rider's head still has space above.


Works better for jumpers. Hunter's don't love this usually.

Vertical


The horse takes up majority of the photo and is in the middle. The jump is mostly cut off.

"Correct" angle allows you to see the front of the horses face but not so straight on that you can see both the rider's boots.

perspective


A difficult angle to achieve. You want to be enough to the side that the rider's butt isn't in the frame but not so far to the side that the standards block the horse's head or legs.

CANDIDS *very important*

Award Photos

Incredibly important to get framing, lighting, and the horse set. Any banners or important class names or titles should be in frame and not cut off.

Horse needs to be SQUARE (Front feet square at minimum).

Horses ears should be forward. Even if it takes multiple minutes to get them forward.

Make sure people are looking at the camera. Take many and multiple images to ensure a photo with everyone's eyes open.

If I have asked you to shoot video:

Nikon settings:

h.265 10 bit

Frame size: 2160 (120)

Video quality HIGH

Set picture control Vivid

Active D OFF

Focus Mode AF-F

Subject Detection Human and Animal



Only video in vertical unless otherwise specified


Please be as still as possible in video mode. Try not to shake.


I start a couple strides before the jump and end a couple strides after the jump.